First presented in 1932 as the Reference 96, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the benchmark for classic men’s dress watches. This groundbreaking collection — which didn’t take on the name “Calatrava” until the 1980s — set the stage for nearly every piece Patek has released since, and became the blueprint for other brands’ approaches to elegant men’s timepieces. Heavily influenced by the Bauhaus design philosophy, the Calatrava was then considered extremely modern with its minimalist, ‘less is more’ approach to watch design.
In the years since 1932, Patek has released dozens of Calatrava references, each with its own idiosyncrasies. Almost all share the underlying DNA of the 96, prioritizing subtle elegance above all else.
This particular Calatrava, a Reference 5296R-010, dates to the 2010s, and is housed in a 38mm 18K rose gold case with a signed crown, a polished bezel, and a sapphire crystal. Its dial is particularly striking: executed in a silver tone, it features a beautiful rose gold handset, and a framed date window at 3 o’clock. Powered by the Patek Philippe Calibre 324 automatic movement visible via a sapphire caseback, it comes paired to a signed, black alligator leather strap with an 18K rose gold deployant buckle.
Inspired by Patek Philippe watches from the 1930s and 1940s, the Reference 5296R-010 is one of the more unabashedly vintage-inspired references from the modern era. If you’re looking for a contemporary take on a classic design, you couldn’t possibly do better than this handsome Calatrava!